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All of the Tips on this page defy categorization, yet might be found useful to someone... somewhere...

1:18 means that 1ft. in the real world is equal to 1/18 of a foot -or- if you built a model that stood 1 foot tall, the real world equivalent would be 18 feet tall.  If you do the math, a "life sized" Stikfas would stand 4'6" tall. I think 1:18 is mostly a close-enough scale, and not exact. ~Brownt72

A good zoom feature is handy for taking pictures of small stuff, and it helps if you can adjust the flash on the camera (so as to not wash out the picture). ~Muccous
This is to make a nice photo studio type background, where the wall of the studio smoothly curves into the floor to prevent harsh dividing lines. Just take a piece of typewriter paper and tape it 6 to 8 inches from the ground to a supporting structure, like a wall or box or whatever solid object you can find.  Make sure the paper goes halfway on the ground and half on the wall. Place the Stikfa on the paper and find a decent low angle to shoot from.  This gives a nice clean backdrop and with the right lighting there isn't any noise in the background to detract from the Stikfa itself. ~Dan Ross

For those in need of a bit more technical information, the trick is to first apply a drop of glue to connect the stem of the ball back to the main body of the figure. Once this has been re-attached, you then need to apply a light "coat" of glue around the seam of the connection area. Two "coats" is better. I would be careful after that since the build-up of glue may become a problem from that point on. Once the "coats" are all nice and dry, the connection is pretty sturdy and you should be able to pose your Stikfas with few problems. ~Godmedia
So fix broken ball joint, simpley [using a drill bit] drill a small hole in both ends of the broken piece. Then insert a paper clip [also called "pin"] cut to the right size. Krazy Glue just a lil of each end and hold for 40 seconds. Krazy Glue is a good brand to use becuz its more liquidy than other brands. Apply just a lil so there is no build up. With the "pin" inside [stuck in with with krazy glue] is should hold up. ~Darocketeer

Working With Fabric
You can get stuff specifically meant to keep fabric from fraying. I think it's actually called "no fray". Then I also use kind of a fabric super glue. It's really weird stuff it's more like liquid plastic. And for certain things, such as fabric-to-fabric gluing it works much better than krazy or super glues as they tend to soak into the fabric and make a mess of things. ~Panzerbanana
If u find a kids glove, and cut the fingertip off, it might make a good hood, and your gf could sew the rest of the cloak on. i've not tried this before, but it might work, plus if u try and it doesn't work, then u've only lost a glove, and not too much time. ~Punkrugger
There's only one way that I been able to get a hood to work, and that was to create a miniature copy of one of my hooded sweatshirts. It's basically a piec of fabric cut into the shape of a circle, and folded in half. Then from the folded joint, you sew down the curved edge until you get close to the bottom. You can't sew all the way to the bottom, or they'll be no room for the neck. That is how you create the point of the hood and the seam on the back. Because I can't sew, I used some fabric tape to hold the hem together. Here's another good tip. Inside the fold at the front of the hood, tape in some thin wire that you can bend to shape. This will allow you form the shape of the hood to what looks best with the Stikfa head. This is the basic idea, but you can modify them a little bit to create the particular shape of hood you are looking for. The funny thing is that I got this to work as a challenge to myself, but haven't created a custom to use it with yet. ~Feddyvon
Here's a link dealing with the subject:

Display Stands
I made a little stand that allows me to set the characters up in their flying poses. I just Super glued a foot tool onto the ladder, and then glued the shield handle onto the top so that the square peg could go into the foot. Holds them up perfectly, and creates a great display stand for my shelf. ~Feddyvon

Here's a link dealing with this topic:

This is just my way of doing this, you may find a different way. I am working with Pre Hasbro Kits. I purchased a cheap dremel tool called the MiniMite... [and] used the engraving bit (very small and spherical) to widen the circular hole in the stikfas feet to fit tiny magnets from Radio Shack called "Rare Earth Supermagnets. After making the holes in the feet big enough (the depth is already about right), I made sure the magnets would fit, then superglued them in place. They hold perfectly on one foot or both, and when you remove them it does not pop the foot out of the joint, but to avoid wear remove from metal by holding the foot.
[Another possible application] I took one of the Stikfas backpacks, cut off the sleeping bag circular dealy with a wire cutter and used the sanding bit for my dremel to file down everything to make a smooth surface on the back of the backpack. Then using a generic magnet I got from walmart that is about the same size as the backpack (they came in a set of about 10 or so for a little over a dollar) I superglued it to the backpack. Now I have a removable magnetic backpack to attach any Stikfas I deem fit onto a metal surface. It is a great combination with the magnetic feet. ~Jiggsh9000