Make your own free website on
Stikfas Workshop
Contest Fodder
Sample Project
Craftsman Guild Tips
Shootin' Gallery
Photoshop Posters

All of the Tips in this section are directly related to the addition of sculpting material to a Stikfas -or- the removal of material froma a Stikfas.


I usually drill some holes on the surface where I want to add stuff on, so that the sculpey or epoxy have a rough surface to stick better on. ~Michaelsng

Just do whatever you can with your hands before going to smaller detailed tools. Cocktail sticks and scalpels are good. If they are moist, it works better. ~Michaelsng

"but ones fingers cannot make epoxy bolts small enough" Make epoxy snakes. . Round the ends. . And cut off with razor-blade. . Or use sculpey and scorch with lighter. . ~PopeRocket 


I did some experimenting with Sculpey 3 and a bit of sprue; Found that turning a toaster oven down to around 90-95 C, and leaving it in for around 20-25 minutes was enough to harden the Sculpey without drastically melting the plastic; Little hairs from the snipped-off sprue tips would sag... However.

When I used it on a body part, I found where I'd trimmed down the sprue stubs had collapsed slightly around the edge of the injection point, then erupted up through the center. Tiny little craters here and there I'll have to clean up. Not severe enough to mangle the body, but enough to make it look kinda unfinished.

If you're covering the sprue attachments, I'd say you won't have to worry. If you're cooking a part and leaving the nubs uncovered, you might want to do a little cleanup afterwards, or break out a fresh body and leave it untrimmed until after baking. ~NutjobGTO

I mold whatever I'm going to put on my stikfa on an extra peice or unpainted peice of stikfas drop it in a coffee mug with enough water to submerge it then pop it in the microwave for like 2 mins til the water is boiling.  Take it out, remove it from the peice of stikfa, let it dry and glue it where ever its going.  No baking required or melting.  Boil it baby! ~Greg Falcone  ( Maestro)

Patching ~ Finishing

Just thought I'd add a tip here. Elmers (the glue people) make a wood filler that can be thinned with water. It sticks well to plastic and sculpey. I've used a thin wash of it with a brush to fill deeep sanding marks and to repair cracked sculpey. ~Kel7Alpha

Cleaning Up

Anyway... If you dip your fingers in water while you work the epoxy putty it won't stick to you (but you will have to reapply the water). It is a bear to get off, though. I usually find that soap, water, and scrubbing gets it off okay. But that's really soon after i'm done working with it. ~Muccous
I use a carpet/rug to get it [epoxy putty] off of my fingers. Just get an old piece of rug and rub your fingertips on it back and forth real fast. The rugburn/friction will take it right off, just don't burn your fingertips (stop when you can feel the heat). ~Seraphimzeta